Monday, January 28, 2013

Pictures with Aaron.

 Some pictures from the last few days.

Loading the car onto the ferry.

Way too cool for school on the boat.
 Half way up Volcano Chiaten...and Hans at the top of the hike surverying his kingdom.

The Carretera Austral winding around the ocean.


 Fishing with absolutely no luck.

Just so our mothers don't worry.  We're eating well.
 The Enchanted Forest of the Bosque Encontado hike.

 Near the end top of the hike.  Our view to our right.

...And a view to our left.
 And emerald pool of awesomeness and the coldest water I have ever felt.

 Trying to pose for a Shiloh worship background.  Can I get an AMEN! Brian?
 Yep, they're standing on glaceir ice.

 It was cold...Logan is goofy.

Logan and Josh simply comtemplating their kingdom.
 The Carretera Austral as we approached Coyhaique.

P.S. We will be posting pictures of all our camping spots next.

Sunday, January 27, 2013

Hans Unleashes a Monster Post Summarizing The First Stage of the Austral


With the taste of homemade cookies and fresh watermelon still lingering in our mouths and minds, Logan backed St. Phoenix down a long concrete ramp onto the Puerto Montt/Chaiten ferry, and the rest of us trooped down behind the car. We located our seats, met a Chilean man who was traveling to Chaiten to do research for his Masters Degree in Geography. After finding our seats, we abandoned them, and rambled and rampaged all throughout the boat. We found a catwalk along the rim of the port hull, and walked out over the water, we went to the rear of the boat and watched the city recede into the sunset. We watched mountains, ate some fruit that a generous crewmember snuck to us, messed around with our facial hair (as we flatter ourselves) and struck manly poses for photographs. Later, when I had succumbed to the comforts of my padded seat, Logan, Josh and Andrew snuck out onto the cargo deck where the car was, and spread their sleeping bags in the open air, with occasional sprays of surf.

We landed in Chaiten under a cloud. In fact, literal clouds greeted our arrival, and under their heavy brow, we rolled the car off the boat, and up onto our glorious gravel home for the next two weeks--the Carratera Austral. Some friendly soul had mentioned that the northern segments of the road were the roughest, and we found ourselves praying that it was true, as St. Phoenix uttered groans and rattles of protest.

Along the Austral,  after first venturing through two landing strips built right into the road (essentially a widening of the gravel, a windsock, and a pair of railroad gates) we found Parque Pumalin, a public-use park, privately owned by the founder of The North Face, in which the road was well kept, there were freezing showers (but, y’know, showers), clean restrooms, and really terrific campsites on the banks of picturesque lakes. We breezed into one such site, ate some lunch, and made for a hiking trail promising to take us straight to Volcan Chaiten, the active volcano that erupted in 2008, with truly catastrophic results for the region.

We wound our way through a rocky landscape of verdant scrub, and the bleached corpses of ancient trees, uprooted, snapped off and tossed any which way. The trail was a steep ascent up steps constructed from the debris of the shattered forest. Even our rigorous exercise at Conguilo left us unprepared for Chaiten. We labored up the barren slope, slopping through sand and ash, and taking frequent breaks to gape at the valley behind, or at the climb ahead. Once, we were passed by a buoyant Chilean who assured us it was only a little farther. He turned out to be lying, but assuring ourselves that mind takes precedent over matter, we at last achieved the summit.

To be honest, it was a little disappointing, at first. We had assumed we were summiting Volcan Chaiten itself, and would finish by staring into the dense smoke rolling out of vents, and perhaps see the glow of lava, far below. Instead, we were divided from the volcano by an immense chasm, the floor of which was entirely large slabs of hardened lava, and one sickly pool. On the far side of the gap, though, rose the angry red walls of Chaiten; too smooth to climb, with steam rolling out from its bulk, and a cloud boiling out from its obscured head. There was a sound of rocks rolling and falling, although we couldn’t see them, anywhere, and the grey magma on the floor of the gorge was scattered with the red castoffs of the volcano. The whole scene was one of sullen menace.

The next morning, we left Chaiten, stopped off for internet in the town of Chaiten--still digging itself out from the eruption, and headed south down the Austral.

The excitement of that first day can scarcely be overstated. Mountains like something from Peter Jackson’s feverish dreams came rolling out of imagination on all sides. Green hills with alpine farms stood underneath incalculable granite walls, and snowcaps receded out of sight beyond those. The drive was characterized by constant exclamations of wonder and exclamations of worry that St. Phoenix might not endure the road.

That night we camped along the high banks of a fast-flowing turquoise river, in the back pasture of a pleasant elderly woman who seemed surprised we’d even bothered to ask if we could intrude. We feasted on rice, lentils, sautéed onions, Nepali roti, and cabbage salad, and sat back to drink our tea, feeling like kings.

Later on in the evening, a trio of Israelis came down to the river and told us they were hitchhiking the Austral. Apparently, it’s a common practice for young Israeli men, having fulfilled their obligatory military service to spend some time traveling in South America, whether to chase the demons of war from their minds, or simply to take some time away before moving on with life, it’s hard to say.

The next day, (after I attempted to fashion a duct tape cover for the broken CV Joint boot in the front right)  as we made our way up the gravel ribbon of the Austral, we ran into the Israelis twice more, and--as they predicted we would--ran into other small groups of Israeli ex-soldiers, all of them making their patient way down the Austral, smoking cigarettes and reading books beside the road.

That night we camped on a beach of rocks and sand in a national forest, surrounded by the remains of other campsites. Our camp was uninterrupted by any other human presence. Our water filter, having stopped working the night previous started again abruptly, and then stopped again.

Yesterday, we rose fairly early, cleaned up our camp, kicked sand and water all through the last vestiges of our illegal fire, and drove up a series of abrupt gravel switchbacks to Bosque De Contada, one of the hikes Aaron used to convince most of us to join the trip.

It did not disappoint. The path wound over babbling streams through an ancient forest, covered in moss and illuminated by golden sunlight, then up a really fairly reasonable ascent, through some brambles, across some fallen logs and out onto a small rapids, in the clear air of a narrow mountain valley. Steep forested mountainsides rose on either side of the river, and the trees receded away to the south, and to the north stood a tall granite horseshoe-shaped mountain, and an honest-to-goodness white-and-blue glacier was hanging down from the rim. We clambered all over the rocks of the stream, and took some pictures, then pressed on along the path.

The path led through another thicket, and then over a small hump of ground. As Aaron--in front--topped the hump, he exclaimed loudly and clapped his hands to his head. Just in front of us was a round basin, and in that basin a lake, fed by waterfalls from the glacier, and littered with shards of the glacier. We inched down the wall of the basin, and ate our PB&J beside the frigid water. Then, knowing that we would never forgive ourselves if we didn’t at least try, we set out to actually climb out onto the ice floes/mini icebergs in the lake.

It took a lot of scrambling through sliding rocks, about halfway around the lake, but Weber, Josh and I can now proudly say that we have stood on top of glacial ice, floating in a lake high in the Andes, and stared up into the sapphire ice of the glacier itself.

After that scary little excursion, we returned to the others, and together we all scrambled up over boulders and through scrub to a place where the mountain snow stretched down the slope far enough to climb to. And climb to it, we did. We made a bold attempt to climb up it, but the grade of the mountain and the slickness of the ice defeated the attempt.

So we rambled back down the mountain, finding as we neared the trailhead that, just like Chaiten, our legs were wobbling (well, mine were) from the exertion.

Last night, we made camp in a shabby sheep pasture, beside a river where we once again used our pole and lure to discover that no fish in Southern Chile is going hungry, and made another round of rice and lentils on our shopping-cart grate from Mike Hostetter.

The fish continue to vanquish all our efforts, but rice and lentils satisfy our hunger, and the hike was more than sufficient to settle us down for sleep with satisfied smiles playing ‘round the corners of our lips.

Those interested in praying could remember our lack of fish, our intermittent water filter, our attitude, and definitely that we would be salt and light, and a blessing to the people we meet.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Puerto Montt, In a Fun Font - Weber


So, picking off where we left Aaron alone in a foreign town, the BullDog Gang (that’s what the four of us are called on the streets) drove the rest of the way from Punto Varas to Puerto Montt.  In a surprisingly short time, 30 minutes or so, we arrived in Puerto Montt.  We scoured Pacheco Altamirano street for the house that had the numbers 2939.  We asked a fisherman where we could find the numbers, and then asked the lady at 2935.  After fingers being pointed, we found our way to the home of Michael and Nancy Hostetter. 
                Once meeting with them, they drove us to a port.  We had heard rumors and rumors of islands, but we weren’t certain exactly what the upcoming deal was.  We unpacked our beautiful Subaru, and got on a little boat taxi and headed to our new home for the next few days, La Isla Tenglo.  Led by Michael and Nancy, we met the owners of a little estate on Tenglo, Ricardo and Eliana.  There, they graciously let us camp outside, use the kitchen of a little building that was used for church functions, as well as use their washing machine and grill.  Amazing, amazing hosts.  Even though they don’t know very much English, and our Spanish is pretty lacking at times, they had the patience that helped communication immensely. 
                We slept well that night, and for the first time yet, we got to sleep in.  For the next few days, we just stayed pretty tranquilo.  We got computer speakers for our radioless car, got mechanical opinions on the car, as well as a few other odds and ends jobs.   Aaron came back on Saturday, and that night we were graciously invited to a meal on the island.  Mike and Nancy (who have been in Puerto Montt for 20 years), Cortland and Kim (who have been there about a year), and other people we hadn’t met yet (who turned out to be a Paul Kurtz look-a-like, as well as a great friend of his, a “neighbor” of Logans in Pennsylvania, a professional fisherman, and an audio engineer).  All around, crazy “coincidences” keep happening all the time.  Everything that keeps happening, even really small things, keeps reminding us that we’re pretty sure we made the right decision to come, and that it is by no means against God’s will that we’re gallivanting.
                By Monday, we left Puerto Montt and traveled to Lago Todos Los Santos, a relatively rushing body of water than housed itself to an amazing view of Volcano Osorno.  This was probably the most scenic camping spot we’ve had yet.  That evening, we had an amazing supper of potatoes, cabbage salad, rice, and yellow tea.  Life is good.  The farther down we go south, the less people are strict and money oriented about camping, which is great.  At this camp site, we could gather our own wood, burn it, camp wherever we wanted (for a small price), and fish.  This site even had pigs that fought each other, and roosters to let you know the dawn has come.  The only problem is that this rooster kept reminding us for hours, until we finally got up.  Then it stopped.  Thanks, nature. 
                We came back to Puerto Montt by 5 p.m. to load our car onto the ferry to Chaiten.  While we were about to load our car, we found Nancy, Kim, and Cortland waiting for us with some goodbye watermelon and cookies (plus a card).  It is needless to mention we all love cookies with a garnishing of watermelon. 
                To our hosts in Puerto Montt: Mike, Nancy, Kim, Cortland, Ricardo, and to Eliana, seriously, thank you so much for all your wonderful hospitality.  It means a ton when you’re on the road, especially when people are as nice and as giving as you all are/were.  This week was a wonderful refresher before we head back to the old dusty trail for 2 weeks.  Quite literally though, since the Carretera Austral is basically all gravel.
                

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Catching up by Aaron


After the adventures of our first day with the car (last Monday), we were able to find a nice campground .  We were all struck with how much it reminded us of camping in the United States.  In fact, throughout our drive to Puerto Montt, southern Chile has reminded me of Alabama, the Californian central valley, Colorado, and even the Midwest.  Anywho, after our first night camping we made the 4 hour drive to Conguillio National Park.  After some shoddy directions from a tourist information lady who’s English was even worse than our Spanish, and an ensuing 40 minute drive in the wrong direction, we made our way to the park.  After a number of kilometers ( a fake unit of measurement made for Communist propaganda) of traveling on a rough gravel road, we made it to the park.  They decided to charge us roughly $40 just to enter.  When we got to the camping section they decided to charge us another $40.  We hoped this trend would not continue.  Though expensive, the view of Lago Conguillio and the surrounding mountains actually made us forget the price we paid.  On top of that, the stars that we witnessed in the night sky were numerous as I could ever recall.

The next day, Wednesday the 16th, we took a hike up the mountain side to get a view of the lake, mountains, and volcanoes of the park.  As we started the hike I was struck with the beauty of the Araucaria trees.  They are shaped like a palm tree but are actually pine trees.  The moss tangled among the trees gave the forest an almost prehistoric feeling.  Finally at the top of our hike, we had an incredible view of the surrounding countryside.  Down one side there was a ravine filled with pine trees.  Down the other side we had a view of the deep blue lake and the incredible mountains.  Just look at the pictures; it’s a bit too much to explain.  Like my friend Tim Yutzy said when describing Yosemite, “It’s like the world is analog television and there it’s HD.”  That’s the feeling I got.  The only problem with the hike is that mutant killer flies that the Chilean government had created in case of a world war had escaped from their laboratory and now try valiantly to feast upon unfortunate hikers.   We descended to the lake and took a freezing cold swim.  We left the park in the afternoon and decided to head out for a lake that I had found on a map.  Our plan was to find a free place to hike in around the lake.  Of course when we got there we found out it was going to cost us about $32 to line our tents up beside a bunch of other families. We decided to turn back and find a field our pasture to pitch our tents.  After him hawing around about where to go, we found a farm house and decided to ask if we could pitch our tents in his field.  Not only did Jesus (both the farmer and the son of God) let us camp in his pasture, he also let us use his water and build a fire.  It was an amazing blessing.

Thursday we headed south for Puerto Montt.  I needed to bus back to Santiago to get the final papers for our car and the guys were going to start staying on an island in Puerto Montt with the missionary contacts we had made.  More will be explained of this in another entry.  We drove south and the GPS took us to a bus station in Puerto Varas which is about 22 “kilometers” from Puerto Montt.  I was able to buy a round trip ticket and we decided to explore the town.  We found it had an incredible amount of German influence and there was even a German festival in the center of the town.  We gorged ourselves on the sausage and fries and realized that our stomachs had really shrunk in the last few days.  After admiring the lake and the view of Volcan Osorno, the guys headed out and caught my bus back to Santiago.

Early in the morning I arrived in Santiago and caught the subway to the apartment complex Hans and I had stayed in for several days.  I knocked on Jose Manuel’s (the 75 year old man we bought the car from) and his wife answered the door.  My heart stopped for a second when I thought she told me he wasn’t back yet.  Thankfully what she meant was that he was still sleeping.  They offered me breakfast and then we were on our way to his lawyer friend who was doing the paperwork for us.  Though struggling with my Spanish, I had a good time explaining what our adventure was.  We got all the paperwork figured out and I headed back to Jose Manuel’s to get my stuff.  Of course they offered me lunch.  This consisted of an appetizer of queso fresco, peppers, empanadas, and bread.  The main course was bean soup, tomatoes, onions, and a desert of peaches.  Their hospitality was really wonderful.  I went back to the bus station and caught my bus back.  Before hand I had the amazing idea to buy carbonated water and zuko (kinda like cool aid but way better) and make an amazing drink.  I did not realize, however, that this causes the carbonated water to fizz all over your legs and the seat.  Also, I didn’t realize that some buses have water come dripping out of their air conditioning that’s right above your head.  I did make it to Puerto Montt eventually and got a taxi to take me to the guys.  I was really thankful that was my last bus ride for a long time.

Sunday, January 20, 2013

Update by Aaron

So we have been a little slow recently in getting stuff up on the blog.  We haven´t had much internet.  Currently we are camping on an island off of Puerto Montt.  We plan on getting a ferry soon and starting our journey in the wilderness of southern Chile.  We we´ll try our best to get more posts up soon with some great pictures.  Please pray that we can get a ferry ticket to start our adventure in the wilderness.  More updates shortly.

The first day with the car by Hans


Monday morning, I eased awake, aware of how long it would be before I could again linger in an actual bed/ The sun was coming up when I at last heaved myself free of the covers, and Aaron and I began to consolidate supplies for the trip.

We ran late, ferrying backpacks, shopping bags and buckets down the elevator, out past the startled security guards and down to the parking lot. Aaron had unlocked the noble beast, and when I came down the second time, I anticipated the car to be mostly packed, and running cheerfully. The car was mostly packed. Neither cheerfully, nor otherwise, was the engine running. When Aaron turned the key, it would give a sort of hopeful snort, and then relapse into silence.

We made a brief attempt to push-start it, but the job was beyond the two of us. So we traipsed fifteen grim minutes to the hostel and rallied the rest of the lads. We tried to break it to them gently, but like taping a pillow on a sledgehammer, the blow still stung.

With five able bodies, though, we pushed the car to life, and went whooping and rejoicing on our way, amazed maintenance staff staring at our dust cloud. We rattled out onto the highway, and headed south.

Our first intimation that trouble still pursued came at one of the toll booths that punctuate the Chilean highway. As Aaron slowed to get in line and get out the money, the loose nature of fourth gear made Aaron think he was in neutral, and with lurch and a shudder, the car went limp, and moved no more.

When the car refused to Act, we stepped in. Logan, Weber, Josh and I clambered out onto the highway, and pushed the car up to the booth. Aaron tossed a mound of cash at the operator, and we pushed the car out onto the open road. The push-start worked, and all of us dove and/or scrambled back into the moving car.

An uneventful twenty minutes followed. Followed by a loud shredding, grinding, clanking flapping noise as the left rear tire succumbed to the rigors of its long life in messy fashion.

Armed with sketchy spare, we pulled onto the shoulder and worked together to change the tire, buses, taxis and semi-trucks whistling past our ears, all the while. We prayed for safety, and dialed the nearest mechanic shop into our GPS.

We followed the GPS, ignoring three other mechanical operations along the same street, because Weber thought it might be worthwhile to see the GPS’ choice. Weber was right. There in the dust, the scrubgrass and the skeletons of expired autos, a bouncy little man with a big beard, big smile and hearty laugh told us we were “locos gringos’ and that for $340 dollars and a fifty-minute wait, we could get four new tires and a brand new battery. So we waited, thinking in awe of what a blessing it is to have things go wrong at the proper times, near the proper solutions. As we rolled on our way, and eventually found our way to a grubby little roadside campground, and ate our simple dinner, we couldn’t help but believe, leastwise, I couldn’t help but believe, that whether by His intentional leading, or perhaps extra grace for the foolhardy and the people who care for them at home, God is interested in our travels, and is taking care of us.

Which is not to say that when the car breaks and stays broken for more than a day that the blessing is gone, but just that a precedent has been set, so that when Grim Events rear their heads, and ready solution s don’t come springing out of the GPS with a grin and a beard, that we can face those moments with the confidence that we are not forgotten, that our prayers and the prayers of our mothers, girlfriends, friends, friends-of-friends and acquaintances are heard, and we are being looked after. One way or another.

Meeting up by Josh


On Sunday the 13th Logan, Weber, and I arrived in Santiago after a 30 hour bus ride that was a not so entertaining drive through the desert of Chile. We arrived at 5:30 AM, under the impression that Aaron and Hans would be there to pick us up.  However, because of our lack of wifi we were unaware that they didn’t have the car yet. So we waited there about 2 hours until we finally got in contact with them and got a taxi to the place they were staying. We then walked to the hostel that Logan, Weber and I were going to be sleeping.  This was the same hostel Aaron and Hans had stayed at.  We finally got a shower after 2 days of traveling: Hallelujah!!   Aaron and Hans then showed us around the city.  We visited the Plaza de Armas (the cities original plaza), and tried some interesting drinks. They were basically canned peaches with wheat rice which was actually pretty good. We then went and bought fruits and veggies at an open air market which was crazy packed and really cool to see. Then on the way back we stopped by the parking garage to view the car that was soon to be our home for the next while couple months.  Waiting for us was a red 92 Subaru Legacy; she was a beauty! I quickly learned it didn’t have a radio, speakers, or air conditioning. All of which I was ok with at that point in time. So after viewing the car we ending up just chillin for awhile at Hans and Aarons place. That evening we went our to eat for supper and retired to our beds for some shut eye. End of day






Here are some random pictures that I (Aaron) quickly added at the internet cafe I am at in Puerto Montt Chile.  More will come shortly.

This was at the National Park Conguillio.
 The car.  She still needs a name.
 At the beginning of the journey.  Machu Pichu.
 Volcanoe Osorno in the background.  This is in the town of Puerto Varas.
 The amazing stonework at Machu Pichu.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Those Three Other Boys On That One Trip - Weber


On the morning of January 7, Josh and I decided to take a trip.  It just happened that others were planning to be in the exact same parts of the world at the exact same time, even using the same small transport vehicle, so it seemed like it should work. We found our way to the airport, we flew out to Houston.  There, we randomly spotted Logan and asked if he wanted to come along.  He agreed.  After eating our last Chinese (food) at Panda Express for months, we found the first plane we could heading internationally.  Peru bound, we were.  We were leaving on a jet plane, we didn’t know when we’d be back again.  Oh, babes, we hated to go.
After 7 hours of personal televisions and interesting talks with co-passengers, we arrived in Lima.  From there, we decided Cuzco (Cusco) would be a prime welcoming city for us, and that Machu Picchu would probably enjoy our presence.  After a 6 hour layover in Lima, we flew out to Cuzco at 5:35, arriving there about 6:25.  Immediately on exiting the airport, we picked up a taxi, and went straight to Ollaytantambo.  From there, we took the 2 hour, incredibly overpriced train ticket solamente for tourists.  A round trip for tourists is 102-122 dollars, while the local transport has a round trip ticket consisting of less than 9 dollars.  The only way to Machu Picchu is by train to Aguas Calientes (which has no cars, only buses to Machu).  Oh well, we were Americans just waiting to spend as much money as possible.
We arrived in Aguas Calientes by early afternoon.  Being a little weary from traveling non-stop for 16 hours (what a joke), we decided to find a hostel.  After having a couple friendly people latch onto us, who interestingly enough also owned hostels, we picked the cheapest one we could.  We soon walked to his hostel, only to find out it is sold out.  Fair enough.  He pointed to his friends hostel, and we asked there for lodging.  The man there asked a much lower price than the previous “gentleman”, so we said yes.  Oh, my friends, how could we not?  The suite was fantastic.  It had direct tv, personal beds (in fact, it was technically a hotel), hot showers, and lights!  But, to be fair, the left side of the television had a very strong blue tint, the personal beds had bedbugs (to which I happened to be the one to find out), the shower handle had a gathering of unidentifiable hair under the handle, and there were no lights when we entered the room.  Thankfully, Fernando (at least that was my nickname for him) came in and put in a light bulb.  What kings we were.
That evening, we went to the natural hot springs (hence the name of the town, Aguas Calientes).  They should have named the town, Warm Springs Where There Are Too Many People And Probably Visible Disease And When Three Gringos Don’t Bring Shorts They Strip To Their Boxers And Get Laughed At But Love It.  After drying ourselves from nature, we followed a concrete recommendation from people from Ohio, and caminared to the Indio Feliz.  We saw the prices for the menu, but hey, what’s 24 dollars for a meal when we’re filthy and sticky rich?  It’s a good thing we stayed, because that goes down easily as one of the top 5 best meals I’ve ever had.  Boy, we weren’t even Indian, but we were happy!


The next morning we bussed to Machu Picchu, hiked to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain (much better for Wayna Picchu, for future goers therers), made some new friends, and explored the  ancient city.  That’s all I’m going to say about the highlight of my trip so far, because it’s too good for words.  Honestly, if there was one word I could use for that place, it would be ilikeitalot.  I’ll be going` back some day, so then I’ll write longer about one of the greatest wonders of the ancient world.
 I realize this is getting long, so from now on I will use quick sentences to keep your attention rapt.  From Cuzco, we took 4 buses.  To Santiago.  The first was an easy.  Overnight bus for 11.  Hours, the next was a.  Hard 6 hours, the.  Next was technically a taxi.  Over the border, and.  The next was a 30 hour.  Bus ride to finish.  In our beloved, Santiago.  Ok, short.  Sentences are.  Over with.  Without having internet for 30 hours, we had left it with Aaron that we would wait at the bus station for them to pick us up at.  Little did we know, he didn’t plan to come at all, but to stay at his place of residence.  Weirdly enough, this bus station had no internet until 10 a.m., and it was 5:30 when we arrived.  Praise the Lord for cool security guards who snuck us into a closed part of a mall, and gave us the password to steal internet from a Kodak photo store.  There was when we found out that we really weren’t being picked up, but it would all work out.  Eventually we taxied to our friends, and began part dos of our adventure, which would be the hardest trip of our life, but eventually, many years later, would make us revolutionary idols in Argentina and Chile, even if we would never see Josh again because we left him in a small town prison

Friday, January 11, 2013

Fun Facts By Aaron

1. Hans and I did our first wind sprints with our shoes in the driest desert in the world, the Atacama.  I doubt many shoes have had that privilege.
2. Mullets are cool in Santiago.
3. Hammer pants and Walkmans are not.
4. Chile produces a coin for 1 peso which is about 1/5 of a penny.
5. You can't see your spit hit the ground when a loogy is hocked from the 18th floor of an apartment building.

Ehh, I guess we just have to figure it out. By Aaron


Since Hans and I were starting to settle into a routine of shopping, exploring, touring, and staying at Hostel Dominica, it was obviously time to change things up.  As stated earlier, during the process (very long process, but I'll get to that later) of buying our vehicle we were offered a place to stay by two men, Cristian and Rodrigo.  So Thursday morning we woke up early and took a taxi to our new home base.  Of course in typical Chilean fashion, the taxi was 20 minutes late and it started to make these North Americans worry that they wouldn't get to the apartment before their friends went to work.  But in typical Chilean fashion, everything just worked out fine.   We got there as the guys were rushing around getting ready for work.  Cristian and Rodrigo have a third roommate, Fransisco, but even with 5 people in the apartment there seems to be plenty of room.  We are on the 18th floor and have a great view over part of the city.  The rest of Thursday was a day of relative rest and relaxation.  The money transfer for the vehicle had not gone through yet so nothing pressing was on the agenda.  We had some shopping to do, for supplies to keep us alive while we barge into the wilderness of the Patagonia, but the only place we knew where to go was a giant shopping mall.  Like shopping malls in the U.S., (which was exactly what this place was trying to be) the prices were to high.  The stores were mostly full of products and clothes, that if given the choice, I would rather live in a 5x8 room with 12 howler monkeys for a week than buy their products.  The rest of the day was spent at the apartment with the exception of when I went on a grocery run.  I dominated the grocery run; everything on my list was found at a good price.  And then I realized I had left my Nalgene bottle somewhere in the streets of Santiago.  It was a bummer, but I can be thankful I didn't lose something like a passport or a younger sibling.  At the apartment we watched the sun set and the lights come over the city and after a late snack with our friends we hit the hay.



    Today was full of ups and downs.  After breakfast we began our expedition of trying what we had on our shopping list: a skillet, ladel, spatula, plates, cups, a lighter, calculator, buckets, and a tarp. By the advice of Cristian we decided to try to "Chinese flea market", which is a market of products made by that industrious Oriental nation.  Once we arrived we couldn't find anything but clothes so we asked a vendor "Nececitamos platos and tazas.  Donde esta?"  He gave us some directions and then asked us if we were brothers, which happens to be about the 4th time it has happened on the trip.  We replied that we were just friends, to which he responded by questioning if we were more than friends.  I'm ready for the rest of the guys to get here so people will immediately recognize that we are a galavanting band of idiots and nothing more.  We eventually found the area of the market that had a store comparable to the famous Dirt Cheap of Atmore, Alabama.  For those of you that aren't familiar with Dirt Cheap, I am basically trying to say it was a loosely organized store with stuff just piled in places.  We were able to get a lot of our cooking utensils there for a great price and we went back to the apartment.  After a quick lunch we, again on the advice of Cristian, started heading for the previously visited shopping mall because it had an equidistant to Home Depot that we had missed yesterday.  On the way out we stopped by Jose Manuel's (the actual owner of our car) to figure out if he had gotten the money transfer in his bank.  We rang the doorbell and a women, hands full of wine glasses, opened the door and let us in.  I was immediately impressed with Jose Manuel.  The dapper, elderly gentlemen was sitting in his living room with about 5 women sitting around the room.  He appeared to be the ultimate ladies man.  I later learned that all the women were either married or related to him.  And as far as I learned, only one of the women was married to him.  He warmly greeted us and then called out "Aye, Cecelia!"  Cecilia was apparently the only women there that had any grasp of English.  The next 15 minutes consisted of Jose Manuel speaking in Spanish and a broken translation from Cecilia and me and Hans slowly catching on that 1. the money had been transferred but for some reason his bank wouldn't give it to him for 2 days, 2. he would be willing to just rent the car to us (we immediately nixed this idea when we finally figured out what he meant, 3. he was leaving on Monday for 4 days and would not be able to do the paperwork to officially give us the Subaru until next Friday.  This was very disheartening news since we were hoping to leave Santiago by Monday or Tuesday.  I became very frustrated and pretty ticked when I learned this but Hans reminded me on the way to the mall that God would work it out like he had everything else on this trip.  At the mall we got buckets and a tarp and thus concluded a very successful day of shopping.  Back at the apartment we waited for Cristian to come home from work so we could discuss what could be done.  He suggested that with a notarized approval we could get the title transferred to me without the presence of Jose Manuel.  This seemed like a great idea to us and decided to suggest it to Jose Manuel when we would see him later.  For supper we went for a walk and got a hot dogs from a stand on the street.  The US should really take some notes from Chilean hot dogs.  Our had guacamole  tomatoes, some sort of cabbage, tomatoes, and an extra choice of about 10 different Mayo and spices to put on top of that.  Delicioso!  When we returned, Cristian spoke with Jose Manuel and broke the news that there was really no way we could transfer the title until next Friday.  Since Jose Manuel could not get our money from his bank for 2 business days he was not willing to officially turn the car over until he got the money.  Understandable, but a bit frustrating since he knows our money is there.  He did, however, give us the paperwork and keys to the car because we wanted to leave by Monday or Tuesday.  This is our plan so far.   We can drive the car in Chile legally even though it is still under his name.  We are going to drive to the beautiful lakes district just north of Puerto Montt and camp for two or three days.  Then I, and possibly one other person, will take the 12 hour bus ride back and get the paperwork finalized on Friday.  We will take a bus back through the night and meet up with the car and the guys in Peurto Montt.  It's a bit annoying but it actually will work out to be just fine and not delay us at all.  God has provided once again so I'm not going to complain.  

PS We have a friend name Pedro Sandoval, from Harrisonburg Virginia, that had planned on coming for the first 6 weeks of this trip. Unfortunately, about a month before the trip he found out he has cancer in his back.  Please pray for him as he is now undergoing radiation treatment and continues his fight.

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Tired, and Full of Ill Temper, Hans Decides to Record the Day in Unrhyming Poetry.

Rose too early.
Eyes stayed shut, brain was bustling.
Breakfast. Shower. Shopping.
Hoping all the while to actually wake up...Didn't happen.
Still, came home with shaving cream, sponges, soap and...I forget. Anyway, we bought it.
Car-Purchase stalled out due to Patriot Act.
That is, Security Bank required to ensure that seller of the car is not a terrorist,
Thus, no real agenda for the afternoon.
So...tomatoes + salt + beef jerky = lunch
Post-lunch: "free" walking tour.
3 hours of vivid history (beheadings, adultery, suicide, injustice) interesting architecture,
3 hours of the sun impersonating gigantic spotlight. Hot as the stage, few shady scene changes.
Came home: strangers in garden.
Strangers; "Hey, how would you like to be extras in a film?"
As one: "Sure, absolutely."

Misgivings: what if it's that kind of of film?

It's not. Adventure documentary.

Fifteen people on a sidewalk count down from three,
Cheer ferociously for thirty seconds.
Motivation was easy: WE'RE IN A MOVIE!

Sweated like ice in an oven, and decided to splurge.
Best cup of coke, ever.

Hashbrowns, onions, and lentils for dinner. Zesty is not yet the word.

Fears alleviated: car owner wasn't a terrorist, apparently. The money went through.

In consequence: early tomorrow we move from the hostel, and we start in on the paperwork.

In conclusion: Things have been set in motion that cannot be undone. Here it comes, prayers are appreciated.

Ps. Sorry if this made it difficult to read. We walked a lot today in a lot of sunshine, so I was feeling like incomplete sentence fragments. I promise not to make a habit of it. We would definitely appreciate your prayers as we move tomorrow, and try to get the legal whatnot worked out with the car.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Fun Fact

When we traveled by bus from Lima to Santiago it was quite an endeavor.  The latitude of Lima and Santiago in the southern hemisphere is equivalent to Managua, Nicaragua and Atlanta, Georgia in the northern hemisphere.  We traveled approximately 2,200 miles which is like driving from New York City to Salt Lake City, or Rosedale to Los Angeles.  Not bad for only walking around when the bus broke down.

Why am I doing this?

This is something I wrote on the plane ride down to Lima.  I was pretty nervous.

Many people have asked the question why we are undertaking a trip of such magnitude.  This is a fair question that sometimes I haven't been quite sure why I convinced myself and a few friends to endeavor something so grand.  But as I reflect on the question I think I have come up with a few answers as to why I am doing this.  Maybe it's because traveling is in my blood and is something that has been passed down generations of both my mother and father's families.  My dad's uncles, while Amish, decided in the late 30's to tour Europe and the Middle East after a bountiful harvest gave them the means to go.  They rode a boat to Italy, listened to Hitler speak, took a bus across the desert to Baghdad while the driver used the stars as guidance.  My dad, mom, grandparents, and several uncles lived in Central and South America doing voluntary service.  My dad did a similar trip to South America when he was my age.  I have had siblings and cousins tour Europe and live overseas.  All these events influenced the culture I was raised in gave me a desire to see as much of the world as possible.  Maybe it's because I have a desire to explore the depths of being a man.  This first 23 years of my life have been spent mostly living at home and getting an education.  While what I have learned in that time is very valuable for becoming an actual man, it doesn't have the same effect that I imagine exploring the depths of a continent will have.  Maybe we can capture that feeling that Lewis and Clark, Sir Edmund Hilary  or Marco Polo had when they saw new horizons. Maybe I am just looking for an adventure to stretch me.  Hiking, camping, and living off our wits will hopefully give me sense of what life was like when survival was more of a struggle.  I feel like a bird that has jumped out of the nest and I have to either fly or smash into the rocks at the bottom of the cliff.  Maybe I'm just looking to have a little fun with some great friends.  Maybe I want to have stories to tell my kids and grand kids some day.  Maybe I want to figure what to do with my future.  Maybe I am afraid of living my life with regrets of what I could have done.  Maybe all of these reasons are playing a part.  Whatever it is, this blog will keep you posted on the adventures, both fun and not fun, we will be having.  And maybe when I come back I'll have a definitive answer for the question.

2 days in Santiago and plenty of provisions


To sum up the last two days as quickly as possible would be to say that God's provisions have been astounding.  Since that still leaves a lot to the imagination I'll actually fill you in on what happened.  After Hans and I arrived at the bus station early Monday morning, we found an internet cafe.  There we picked a hostel to stay at for a few days.  An expensive but necessary taxi took us to Hostal Dominica, our home for the next three days.  On the way to the hostel I, Aaron, was struck with the beauty of Santiago.  I have always had a great fondness for trees, so I was most impressed with the array of Sycamores, pines, palm trees, and many more.  I had not realized it was possible for pine trees and palm trees to live in the same city.  The buildings are the typical Latin style but at the same time are nicer and larger than the other Latin cities I have visited.  The only disappointing scenery is that the mountains surrounding the city appear arid, with little vegetation.  There aren't any trees and hardly any snow on the mountains but I guess it takes a lot of nerve to criticize mountains in South America when you come from the Darby Valley.   It turns out that the hostel is located on a beautiful street in a good part of town and is within a minutes walk of tallest hill and biggest park in all of Santiago.  We have met Germans, English, Australians, Colombians  Brazilians, a Canadian, and some other countries that I can't recall at the moment.  This hostel has been a gift from the Lord.  After arriving at the hostel Monday morning I emailed the most the man with which we had been in contact about the Subaru 4x4.  As luck (haha) would have it, the car was about a 15 minute walk from the hostel and we set up a meeting for that evening.  In the meantime Hans and I needed to do a little shopping for vitamens and electrical outlet converters.  We also had to go to the Chilean taxation office because I needed to obtain a RUT number, which is essentially a social security number for Chile, in order to buy a car.  When I walked into a crowded office I immediately felt overwhelmed.  There were people standing in lines all over the room.  A man, Jorge, must have sensed our confusion because after just a few seconds he came up to us and asked us in broken English what we needed.  We told him and he went and got the proper paperwork and with our help filled out everything we needed.  As he was sitting with us while we waited for a person to process the forms I realized that he wasn't even a worker in the office; he was a just a kindly man there on business that wanted to help los gringos estupidos.  After obtaining the RUT number it was time to go see the car.  The emails I had with the seller made it seem as if he was pretty good at English.  When we met the man with the car, however, he did not know any English.  He still told me to take it for a test drive.  Pulling out into a busy street into one of the biggest cities in South America but was also really fun.  It ran well and we were impressed.  The toughest part was trying to figure out where old Jose Manuel was telling me to go.  When we returned two young men arrived.  They were helping Jose Manuel sell his car.  These were the men I was emailing and the one, Christian, was fluent in English   One more blessing for the day.  More information about the car will be forthcoming because we want to surprise our amigos who are meeting us in a few days.  Let's just say it is in great mechanical shape but has a lot of character in other, possibly inconvenient  ways.

Tuesday morning we confirmed with Christian, Rodrigo, and Jose Manuel that we would purchase the car.  Unfortunately, Chile's car prices are about twice what they are in the U.S. but I guess that just we need that many more prayers that we can return it in one piece and resell it.  At noon we met with Rodrigo, who knows very little English, and Jose Manuel and tried to get bank information so that we could wire money directly to his account.  This turned out to be a great experience of going up to Jose Manuel's apartment and being served some sort of milky coffee drink that was delicious.  We stumbled along in our Spanish and I tried to remember everything that my high school days had taught me.  We finally got the bank information figured out.  After we left the apartment Rodrigo tried to help us figure out if we needed anything other than an international driving permit to drive in Chile.  After a few visits to the police station and the local AAA we learned that we did not.  In the meantime, we made friends with Rodrigo and he offered us a place to stay his apartment with Christian.  God's provisions were just raining down like a Ray Allen three pointer.  That afternoon we went to a local market to buy some groceries.  We were able to get potatoes, tomatoes, beans, bananas, onions, and garlic for a very reasonable price.  After preparing a great meal in the hostel's kitchen, we decided to climb the hill behind our where we are staying.  It was quite a trek up but we finally made it up to the statue of the Virgin Mary at the top.  We watched the sun set over the city and watched the lights come on as it got dark.  It was quite beautiful.  As we were leaving we met a girl from Florida and her two Chilean friends.  As they were quite friendly and seemed knowledgeable, we decided to follow them down because it was getting dark.  Unfortunately, the appearance of knowledge was all that it was: an appearance.  After an hour and a half of walking and turning around we finally made it to the bottom of the park but on the completely wrong side.  Though it took us a long time to get back to our hostel, we were able to make friends with the people.  The Chilean man was a charismatic chemist who gave us a lot of advice on where to go and where not to go in South America.  Hans was able to have a lengthy conversation with the Chilean women about theology and philosophy as the women had her masters in something intellectual that I can't really remember now.  In summary, the last two days have been extremely productive as we get ready to meet up with the tres amigos.  We hope the next days will be just as productive.

P.S. We don't have any pictures because Andrew is bringing the camera.  We'll start posting pictures when he meets up with us in a few days.        

Part Two: "Hans, why?" + The Exodus


If you'd like to just read about our adventures so far, you can skip halfway down this gigantic blog entry. However, the chronicle that follows of our rampaging about the southern hemisphere must be prefaced, I think, by at least some discussion of why it is that we feel led to rampage. It sometimes seems shameful to admit that outside of hoping to be salt and light wherever we go, very little about this trip is 'missional,' but nevertheless, I do feel led.
I'm reading through Ecclesiastes, right now in my personal devotions, and although I don't have the precise reference in front of me, I daresay most potential readers of this blog are familiar with the idea of taking joy in the work of your hands, and in the lot given you by God. More, although it's not so popular now as a few years back, the catchphrase 'lifestyle of worship' in its myriad variations still gets bounced about the hallowed halls a good bit, and outside of blitzgreig tract-distribution, I think that a lot of that comes back to glorifying God by making the most of what He's given us, enjoying it, and thanking Him for it.
Finally, although more could be said, there is also the idea that it is formative in some way to encounter a foreign world on its own terms, in the (last, perhaps) blush of one's youth, to leave the horizons broad, and the possibilities (of both kinds) open. It is, in a powerful way, educational.

In essence, then, I hope to glorify God through the work of busily adventuring, through making the most of His creation and thanking Him for it, and through cultivating a better, sharper, smarter, self. Whether anything more must be said, whether by ammendment, correction or qualification, I don't know.
__________________________________________________________________________________
The past few days in a nutshell: Aaron and I arrived in Lima, and stumbled through the airport asking anyone who looked credible where we could get yellow fever vaccinations. After a great deal of confusion, we learned the difference between the Spanish word for "Vaccination" and the Spanish word for "Vacation." Shortly thereafter, we were inoculated.

We spent a short, pleasant night on the floor in the airport, then in a blurry morning found a taxi, and a bus station. A few hours (mostly spent in a very pleasant VIP room) later, we boarded the two-level bus and were off for the Chilean border. The bus was quiet, pleasant, and very comfortable, and we passed twenty or so hours in thoroughly agreeable fashion. Even the movies, with one exception, were enjoyable. The scenery was interesting, for a desert, but we looked forward to the scenery changing soon after we entered Chile.
This bus disgorged us, then, in a very different bus terminal; a wild, grimy mass of people yelling and moving rapidly in a variety of directions, many of them waving their arms, and some of them bellowing out destinations. Aaron and I, hoping to get a bus across the Chilean border, and following someone through the terminal in order to do just that, somehow got tossed in a taxi, and crossed that way. The desert was not so mountainous or rocky, at this point, but we looked forward to the scenery changing soon after we entered Chile.
Having entered Chile, we spent a great deal of sweat and time rushing in a frenzy from bus-company store to bus-company store trying to find the ideal ride to Santiago. Having made up our minds, we settled on what we now believe to have been the worst option. The seats were not so comfortable, and the reading lights didn't work, and the luggage rack rattled, and the seats were closer together, and there was a family seemingly composed of eighteen trillion wailing toddlers just behind us, but we smiled patiently, thinking of how close we now were to Santiago, and the real beginning of the trip.

A rotund man in a New York shirt entered the restroom--positioned just behind our seats--and disobeying bus company orders misused the bathroom in such a way that it left Aaron choking back gags. I fell asleep lulled by the desert scenery, and woke to discover that we were inching along the precipice of an incalculable gorge. The sight was invigorating, and somewhat terrifying, but it left me looking forward to the things we would see, soon, when we left the desert, and entered the more attractive portions of Chile.
I tried to read, but the absence of reading lights eventually wiped out the possibility. Luckily, the crying children and a whole host of other passengers departed, leaving many seats unoccupied. Aaron and I both stretched out across a pair of seats, and thus the fitful night was spent.
I woke at about seven the next morning, stirred by the bus pulling over. Something had broken down. I was surprised to see that the we had not yet entered the more attractive portion of Chile. I slept for a bit, then got out and jogged around the desert beside the road a bit, and attempted to socialize, then Aaron did the same, and thus a fiftul four hours of delay was spent.
At long last, with the help of some truckers, the bus was patched up, and we headed out again. The day, such as it was, does not bear detailed repeating; the bus would lurch along, then slow...then stop. The men would pile out. The men would inspect the engine at length. The bus would start again. Aaron and I would stare at the desert, amazed both at the variety that is possible within the range of desert landscapes, and also at the way it never ended. Around that time, we gave up on the idea that there were even more attractive parts of Chile, and started to theorize about theological models that this might be hell.
The second and third times the bus broke down, it proved necessary to push-start it towith a semi-truck. All we knew inside the bus was that it suddenly lurched (forward or backward) and gave a mighty cry, and--sometimes--roared to life, and on we rattled, further and further into the unbelievable, unending, eternal desert.
As day failed, and night fell, we once again convinced ourselves to sleep, hoping against hope that day would bring us past the desert, trading bets on how many hours we were actually going to spend on that rattletrap of a bus.
Just past midnight, we were awakened by the bus once again pulling off to the side of the road with some sort of malady. Men disembarked. There was a to-do. The bus lurched violently, and roared to life. We made it maybe a mile down the road before suddenly, the bus' engine began to choke and thud, and there came a powerful smell of smoke, oil, and death. The other passengers near the back began to cry out in fear and outrage, and scoot away from the epicenter of what promised to be a terrific explosion. Luckily, the bus pulled off and stalled out before things had a chance to get really dramatic, and the longsuffering men disembarked, and battered the engine about with wrenches and things.
This time, however, it was not to be. Confessing themselves defeated, the men set up a sudden cry of "Otro bus!" and all of of us were suddenly rushing through the bus, collecting our carry-ons and scrambling out in a daze. The other bus, we got the impression, was ambushing us.
This too, was not to be. After we all had our luggage and were standing in gaggle beside the road like ragamuffin strays, begging for a home, two buses pulled up, had words with our bus crew, and roared again into the night, shaking the dust off their sandles. The third time, however, was the charm, and it was, in fact, a bus better suited both to the rigors of the road, and to the creature comforts of the rescued passengers. Equipped with reading lights, reclining seats, little pillows and working climate control, the remaining six hours or so to Santiago do not exist in my mind, because Aaron and I both spent that time performing our most polished impression of dead blobs, who sit unmoving, and unfeeling as the world passes by.
Sunrise, and the morning found us in a reasonably attractive bus terminal in that promised land of promised lands, Santiago, Chile.

Friday, January 4, 2013

What is actually going on?

This will be a brief summation of what is actually going on during this trip.  Hans Shenk and Aaron Miller arrived at Lima, Peru on January 3rd.  Over the next several days they plan to bus down to Santiago,Chile and buy a 4x4 Subaru.  On the 7th Andrew Weber, Josh Gingerich, and Logan Stoltzfus will fly into Cuzco, Peru, tour Macchu Picchu and then bus down to Santiago to meet Aaron and Hans.  From there the group will start heading south to Puerta Montt.  This is the gateway to the Patagonian region of Chile and Argentina.  This is where the next 7 weeks will be spent.  The myriad of adventures planned for this area include driving the Carretera Austral ( a 2,000km gravel highway that connects southern Chile with the north), 5 day hikes both at Monte Fitz Roy, Argentina and Torres del Paine, Chile.  We will try to see some whales, otters, cougars, emus, and guancos, foxes, pengiuins, and much much more.  Hopefully we can catch and eat some of the biggest trout and catfish in the world.  6 weeks into this adventure in the Patagonia Logan will leave us in Punta Arenas and Sheldon Yoder will be joining us.  After this, the next goal is to get to the southernmost city in the world: Ushuaia, Argentina.  From the Patagonian adventure we will travel to Buenos Aires where Josh will bid us farewell.  We will then leave Argentina and cross into Uraguay and do whatever people do there I guess.  Honestly, I haven´t researched it much.  In Brazil we will vist Iguazu Falls, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janiero (where Andrew leaves), and La Pantanal.  La Pantanal is a area in western Brazil that has the wildlife of the Amazon jungle but is a grassland marsh, which gives you a view of all the animals.  There we hope to see aardvarks, anteaters, tapirs, macaws, caimens, oscelots, and if we are extremely lucky jaguars.  From Brazil we will cross into Peru.  In Peru we plan on visiting Cuzco, Macchu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, Colca Conyon, Lima, and much much more.  In the Andes of central Peru we will do another 5 day hike.  Depending on time we may or may not travel north to Ecuador.  From Peru, however, we will cross into Bolivia.  In Bolivia we plan on another extensive hike, visiting their vast undeveloped national parks, seeing the salt flats of Uyuni, and whatever else we feel like.  Come the end of our trip we will resell the Subaru in Chile and then bus back to Lima for our return flight on May 23.  This is at least our plan at this point but who knows what can happen.

Here is a map of what should happen: